
This week I spoke to Food Waste Recovery Coordinator, Martin Field about his journey through culinary school, why you shouldn’t take your pasta for granted, and his work to help reduce food waste with A Better Life Foundation.
The Ups, Downs, and Rice Pilafs of Culinary School
Martin’s experience in the food industry began in 2017 when he began working as a food truck operator at Tacofino, assembling burritos in the confines of their travelling establishment. Ironically, he couldn’t drive which marginally limited his utility in the team, but this is where he began gaining a firsthand appreciation for the instant gratification his work could spark in a customer. This experience spurred him on to enrol in culinary school at the Northwest Culinary Academy of Vancouver, and commit to life in the industry. While at school, some of Martin’s biggest takeaways were not necessarily from specific lessons, but rather the close camaraderie and banter he shared with his fellow students. This is not to say he doesn’t remember the dishes he had to learn, as he notes hollandaise sauce and rice pilaf as two notorious lessons from his time at Northwest. Rice pilaf, in particular, gave Martin fits due to the difficulty of balancing various moisture levels, but he challenged himself by personally selecting this dish to be part of his final exam. When he finally produced a successful rice pilaf, he said that “I don’t know if it was satisfying” to cross it off his list after so many attempts, but it certainly was a relief. Studying dishes and techniques from all over the world in a supportive and positive learning environment, Martin says that this is where he truly gained an appreciation for cooking.
The Pasta Station
At the end of his time in culinary school, Martin volunteered for Swine Out Vancouver, a festival featuring local craft breweries and charcuterie prepared by local chefs, or you know, a good time. This is where he met the future owners of Autostrada Osteria, who offered him an opportunity to join their team. As Martin’s first official job following culinary school, he says it was a whirlwind of a year, moving from the appetizer station all the way up to the position of sous chef of prep, with multiple stops in between. He singles out the pasta station as a particularly difficult all-day affair. Hand-making fifteen to twenty portions of pasta for hours on end, he describes looking down on his board for so long that his vision would blur into a singular doughy mess. Think about the person on the pasta station before your tasteless tableside impression of Lady and the Tramp. When COVID-19 hit the restaurant industry, Martin was, unfortunately, one of the many layoffs that followed. He talks about this sudden change in his life as a bittersweet experience, as while he found the job to be extremely fulfilling and “the biggest hustle of my life,” the hours he had accumulated were also taking their toll on his mental health. With a lot more time on his hands, he turned to an activity that will forever be associated with 2020, making homemade bread.
The Secret to Making Bread
While many of those who started sourdough starters have since stopped (also the title of my favourite nursery rhyme), I asked Martin for some advice to share with the remaining holdouts. He said that “just investing in really good flour,” will make for a superior loaf, citing that fresh flour will be weeks or even months fresher than a bag from the supermarket. This results in different colours, textures, and of course flavour, as well as making bread more accessible to those with gluten sensitivities. He wanted to show that bread could be elevated to something more and that by investing in better ingredients, “the product is better, even though the process is the same”. But eventually, he reached a point where his freezer was full, his friends were fed, and he had to decide what to do next with his life. He recognized that the pandemic had disproportionately affected several local communities and decided that he wanted to use his skills to help alleviate food scarcity and food waste in Vancouver. After some searching, he found a match with A Better Life Foundation, an organization working to help feed residents of the Downtown Eastside.
Reducing Food Waste with A Better Life Foundation
At its core, Martin’s role is to reduce food waste from both the donors who supply his organization with food, as well as within the programs run by the organization itself. His involvement begins with A Better Life’s Daily Meal Program, which delivers an incredible thousand meals a day. Despite such a large quantity of meals being produced, some ingredients are left behind, and Martin says that whichever starch (potatoes, pasta, rice, etc.) is most available is often the starting block of the dishes he will prepare that week. In addition to constantly surveying the excess food from the Daily Meal Program, he also receives deliveries several times a week from supermarket donors, constantly varying in their contents. An example of a strategy he uses to manage this unpredictability is an affinity for fruit salad, a way to effectively use all the fruit he has accumulated in a productive way. Moreover, he explains that “sometimes you’ll get a papaya, or a dragon fruit or even just a pomegranate,” not necessarily the type, nor quantity of ingredient to make many meals. Coming up with creative ways to utilize an ever-changing pantry, and extract every ounce of good out of the donations provides a constant challenge for Martin, and helps keep him inspired at work. He also takes a lot of pride in the meals he makes on Fridays, using everything he has saved from the past week to create as much food as possible without sacrificing any quality. Tuna casserole, macaroni and cheese, and bolognese on rice are all recent products of this Friday meal; a personal challenge he gives himself is to make enough food where “I don’t weigh anything, I just fill the container to the brim,” and get as much as possible into the hands of those who need it.
Chefs in the Media
In between shifts, Martin follows @for_the_chefs, an Instagram account celebrating the lowlights and mishaps associated with his line of work. A quick glance shows compilations of big spills, overflowing vats, and other situations you’d like to look at, but don’t want to be a part of. However, Martin shared an unfortunate lesson he learned when he attempted to move a 20-litre bucket of short rib juice that was perched atop an overturned milk crate. Instead of lifting it off, he pushed the entire unit, completely flooding the walk-in refrigerator he was standing in. With all the liquid pooling up, he had to sweep the liquid out of the fridge and into the kitchen, before he was able to actually clean it up. Despite this laborious process, Martin maintained a good perspective on the situation, saying that he immediately thought “I am now one of them,” and this helped him to find some pleasure in a day spent cleaning, which if we are being honest, is not always a bad day at all.
To finish the interview, I asked Martin if any of the many food movies and television shows out there are worth their *ahem* salt. He replied that he would love to see more programming from a young chef’s perspective as opposed to the idolized, master chefs who are perpetuated both in fiction and reality tv. By showing a more realistic point of view, he says that “people who don’t cook would actually gain a pretty good understanding of what life is like being a young cook,” and find it a more accessible field to enter as well. Simply put, he recommends Ratatouille over Burnt every time.
To keep up with Martin, and see some of his most recent dishes, follow him on Instagram. Learn more about his work with A Better Life Foundation, and donate to a program that has helped deliver over a million meals since 2012. They are currently in their #BeingHungrySucks campaign to increase both the number of meals they can deliver with their Daily Food Program, as well as their donor list to help reduce food waste across Vancouver. Finally, they are launching Sharpen Up, a program to share cooking skills and education with members of the Downtown Eastside community.
Follow A Musing on Facebook and Instagram for more content on Martin and the other creatives in this series.
And don’t forget to check out last week’s interview with comic artist, Alyssa Hirose.


